The name Tiger Loft has no particular meaning, just happened to find a picture of a tiger while surfing the Internet. I thought the picture was interesting and after several hours working with it . . . . . . Tiger Loft was born.
GOALS: My primary goal is the enjoyment of the birds and the secondary goal is to breed competitive youngsters for the * Futurity Races *
LOFTS: I keep a small breeding operation for two very important reasons. REASON ONE: The smaller the operation the more severely you must cull your stock. You can not keep them all . . . so cull hard. Even though your culls may turn out to be someone's foundation stock. I only keep what is manageable to me.
My main loft measures 12 foot by 10 foot and built in a modular design. This design allows me to have multiple single pair breeding areas. I also have two additional small lofts built in a hutch style which I use for holding pens for the young birds.
REASON TWO: The smaller the operation the easier it is to keep clean. A clean loft is more enjoyable for me and my birds and also contributes to good health in the breeding program.
The loft design is simple and plans for this style or variations of it can be found at Red Rose Loft starter loft website Click Here
The following procedures work for me, but remember I do not fly my birds
so they are never exposed to other pigeons and they do not have a training schedule. This is a breeding loft and the following methods work very well for me.
FEED: I feed Nutra Blend pigeon pellets most all the time.
The Nutra Blend product is 15% protein and a well balanced diet. I have found using pellet type feeds you will have very little if any sickness in your birds. I will add Diatomaceous Earth to the feed at the rate of four cups per 50lb. of pellets.
This is done about every other month and will keep the birds worm free and in excellent feather condition. Note about Diatomaceous Earth CLICK HERE
GRIT: I offer oyster shell grit daily to the birds.This type of grit is primarily used for poultry. The grit varies in size but the birds pick what they want or need. When feeding pellets there is no requirement for grit to help in the digestion process but the birds do have a need for calcium especially during breeding season. I will also supplement the pellets with corn during the cold months and the grit is needed at that time.
WATER: I change water daily and refrain from additives to the drinking water. If not mixed properly vitamins or medications added to the drinking water will taint or bitter the water causing the birds to drink less and eat less. To test this theory place two identical water jugs in the loft, one with clean water and the other with vitamins or additives. I think you will find that the jug with the with clean water will be used first.
VITAMINS: I do use a powdered or water soluble vitamin and electrolyte "Plus" by AgriLabs during periods of stress or prior to the show season. This is an inexpensive multi vitamin that can be purchased at your local feed store.This is mixed one quarter teaspoon per gallon of fresh water, but I only use it 7 to 10 days then back to fresh water. I always clean the water containers with a bleach solution after using any additives.
MEDICATIONS: I am not real big on constant medications for the birds.I will vacinate for PMV and treat with 4 in 1 . . . (this is available from most pigeon supply stores) For the treatment of canker, e-coli, paratyphoid and coccidiosis. This is done prior to breeding and show season at the rate of 1 teaspoon to a gallon of drinking water for 7 days. . . . . Then back to fresh water !
I just do not tolerate sick birds . . . .they are eliminated. Occassionally I have a
bird go light or off feed, but this is very rare. I will isolate the bird and treat with
the 4 in 1 and vitamins and if there is no improvement after several days I eliminate the bird from my loft. It has been my experience that some birds are just more prone to sickness and this is a weakness that I will not breed from.
BLOODLINES: I have never looked for particular bloodlines or chased after the
so called hottest blood of a given time. I focus on past performances of each individual bird looking primarily for race winners or proven breeders of winners. I have always been amazed at pedigrees stating foundation quality. True foundation birds are like a diamond . . . and very hard to find. I stick to the old adage of breeding the best to the best.
Picture from the late eighties holding only day bird in Oklahoma
from the Texas/Oklahoma 500 mile Shotout Race
I strive for breeders who possess one or all of the following:
 Race Winner (or top ten finisher)
 Proven producers of Winners
 Direct son or daughter of Race winner
I will breed from 4 to 5 cocks and rotate hens in that family to them.
Each year I will also bring in several hens from different bloodlines to cross on my existing cocks. The resulting youngsters will be sent out to a few of the smaller futurity races to test the mating's.
MEMBER:
 International Federation
 Oklahoma Pigeon Association
 Saddle Homers USA
Testimonials
Matt Kasulke writes 11/26/08
Steve,
HI there Steve I don't know if you remember me but my name isMatt Kasulke. I bought a bird off you "Savage" last year. Just wanted to see how things are going . I had Savage mated to a 4th place 500 mile winner last year and raised 2 babies off him. One got hit by a hawk and the other placed 10th on a 200 mile race with 600 birds. I'm hoping for big results this year as I am giving him a nice hen.
Good luck to you and keep em' flying.
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